Surfing is not cycling. It’s not boxing, or long-distance running, or cross-country skiing. Compared to other athletics out there in the sporting world, surfing is not as exhaustive, not as physically ...
On a typical Saturday morning, my alarm goes off at 5:30 a.m. I get out of bed in a groggy haze, feed my dog, feed myself, gather my surf gear, and drive to the beach. I’ve never thought of myself as ...
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